Spring 2007


AFRICA - INDIAN SUBCONTINENT - AMERICAS - MIDDLE EAST - EUROPE

WORLDWIDE SAFARIS - DISCOVERY JOURNEYS - WILDERNESS ADVENTURES

Tailor-made itineraries to your requirements

  Trip Report

In the News

Rwanda

Late last year, in the rainy season as it is usual for us tour operators to travel "off" season; Steve Banner took an overnight flight down to Nairobi with Kenya Airways:

My first impressions on the short onward flight to Kigali were just how huge Lake Victoria appeared and that Rwanda seemed a very scenic country, something that was to be borne true on the ground. Formalities were simple and I met with my driver, William and his Toyota Landcruiser. We first headed south but over the next five days I would gain first hand experience of much of the country. Many of the very good roads continuously climb up and down and pass along high ridges. Only in the east does the land flatten out. We first drove to Nyungwe Forest National Park.

Nyungwe is one of the most beautiful forests I have seen. This montane forest is home to an important number of species such as the highly colourful, regal sunbird. However, most come to see primates. L'Hoescht's monkey are readily seen but the highlights are the 400 strong troupes of colobus monkeys and their main predators, chimpanzees. I set of with trackers and enjoyed the challenge of keeping up with a large troupe of chimps for some good sightings.

Back in Kigali, the central hub of the country, I stayed at the comfortable Umbano Novotel before an early start to Ruhengeri. This really is 'gorillas in the mist' country as we stop for few photos like the one above. At Volcanoes National Park headquarters I was assigned one of the seven habituated groups and set off with a guide. Thick bamboo greeted us but climbing steadily brought us to the group that were lazing on their morning nests in a clearing.

Observation was excellent with a huge protective silverback and youngsters beating their chests play fighting, the hour with them passes all too quickly.

Later we descended to pretty Lake Kivu in the west and the following day we passed back through Kigali to Akagera National Park in the far east. This is typical savannah country with the scenic addition of a number of lakes ensuring good wildlife encounters. For birders shoebill storks and papyrus gonaleks can be seen here along with a good range of other wildlife: elephants, buffalo, giraffe, hippos, impala, etc.

Rwanda is incredibly varied for such a small country. It is safe, very scenic and the people are delightful and despite it’s troubled past Rwanda today is a strong progressive country. Accommodation is generally fairly simple still but if you travel you will be rewarded with some wonderfully diverse wildlife encounters. I highly recommend that you explore as much of the country as possible.

  Hidden Gem

Bocas del Toro - Panama

Panama - you surely know of the canal but do you know very much more? There are a least a couple of gems in this country, the San Blas de Cuna islands - which we ourselves have not yet uncovered! and the Bocas del Toro archipelago which we recently visited. Both were featured in the BBC's 'Wild Caribbean' series recently.

There is one centre on the islands, Bocas town which is small, friendly and welcoming. A typical, laid back, Caribbean town of characteristic old wooden buildings. Tourism is starting to make in-roads but the town remains low key and fun to explore at a relaxed pace. From town getting about is generally by boat and these can be readily hired. The whole archipelago is a wonderful place to explore and there is much to delight the nature lover as it remains mostly unspoilt at present.

Hawksbill, loggerhead, leatherback and green turtles come ashore on a number of the islands to nest, including the protected Zapatillas Keys. There is great snorkelling and diving in the exceptionally clear waters over the reefs. One bay is named Dolphin bay with good reason and they are a joy to watch. A research project is currently studying these dolphins that live within waters sheltered by mangroves. It is also possible to encounter manatees and a local tourism initiative is underway to develop this.

Back on land Isla Bastimentos has a forest reserve with an interesting cave system that the adventurous can explore. Bird watching is very good throughout the islands and around Red Frog Beach you may find the indigenous frog of the same name. There are now a number of local community projects run by the indigenous indians and one such at Bahia Honda runs a small restaurant and a guided nature trail.

Bocas has a reasonable range of accommodation with the most luxurious being Punta Caracol with its over-the-water cottages. There is also a good small, jungle lodge. Regular flights from Panama city and San Jose, Costa Rica serve the islands and it is also possible to travel by land from Costa Rica and then take a short speed boat journey out to Bocas.

Like much of this area of central America there are plans by Americans for development (hopefully in an environmentally sensitive manner) so you should perhaps consider visiting sooner rather than in the distanc future.

We can easily incorporate discovering Bocas del Toro into our Costa Rican itineraries.

  A Place to Stay

Outposts Camp - Canada

For Canada's ultimate 'escape to nature' experience head to The Outpost Camp at Bedwell River. Set in the pristine Clayoquot Sound Biosphere, near Tofino on Vancouver Island. Each of the luxuriously furnished traditional prospector style tents are discretely nestled into the forest canopy, overlooking the river and mountains beyond.

The great outdoor wilderness is the main attraction here where guests are spoilt for choice. Whale and bear watching trips are a must, then maybe a forest trail on horseback, a kayak trip in Bedwell Sound at seal eye level watching for foraging bears and otters or try your hand at river, lake or ocean fishing guided by the experts who know all the best spots. Then finish your day with a relaxing well earnt spa treatment to refresh those tired limbs.

Dining at The Outposts is a sumptuous affair where many of the ingredients are supplied by small business in the area or grown in the lodge gardens. Freshly baked bread, locally caught oysters, salmon and scallops and regionally produced cheeses are just some of the specialties used to create mouth watering menus.

A 3 night stay between May & September including floatplane transfers from Vancouver, all meals, drinks and lodge activities from £2655 per person based on two sharing.


Journalist Searching for the Northern Lights

In March we sent Ian Herbert, appropriately the northern correspondent for the The Independent, northwards to explore the magic of winter in Finnish Lapland. He also reviewed the recently built Aurora Chalet and a feature will appear in travel section of the Independent on Sunday around September or October this year. Keep a lookout as we know that he thoroughly enjoyed this short break! 4 days break from £1000 per per person including flights, accommodation, meals and all guided activities. Further details of winter activities


Also in the Press – Nile Perch Fishing: Uganda

The Field magazine this month has a wonderful feature by Henry Gilbey on fishing for huge Nile Perch at the bottom of Murchison Falls in Uganda. We sent Henry last year to these awesome falls where the Nile plunges 45m through a 7m wide chasm, to fish with top guide Alastair Brew. He also went on safari in the national park and his descriptive writing is very powerful, even if you are not a fisherman we urge you to read the piece. 10 days from £2350 incl. flights, guiding, accommodation & meals, park fees & game drives. Further details


New Staff

Sheena Ogley joined Wildlife & Wilderness in November. She brings with her 4 years of experience designing tailor-made itineraries to East and Southern Africa, about which she is a real enthusiast! Sheena also has a good knowledge of and a passion for the wildlife and wild places of Canada and has also just returned from a cruise of the Galapagos Islands. She is already proving an important member of the W&W team.


Neeleshwar Hermitage to open mid-Feb 2008.

The first resort to open on the beaches of northern Kerala, Neeleshwar Hermitage will open for the main season in early 2008. This superb resort will consist of large, individual, deluxe sea facing and garden view cottages set in acres of coconut palms and gardens. The Olympic size infinity pool looks out over a small lagoon to unspoilt beaches. This whole region of Kerala is undiscovered and great for relaxation in stunning surrounds but there is plenty of nature too, indeed there are plans for a resident naturalist. Turtles nest here and a conservation programme is being set up. Bird watching is excellent and for those interested in wildlife it combines easily with Nagarhole reserve. Culturally it can also be combined with Mysore and Cochin and the backwaters further south. International flights are in to Mangalore, just 1.5h distance. Escape next winter with an introductory rate from £100 per person per night.


Kafue - Zambia

2007 is the year that Wilderness Safaris take their expertise into Zambia. Starting in Kafue National Park - a reserve the size of Wales, they have revamped and refurbished and will manage five spectacular camps in the region. Kapinga & Shumba are the premier camps, akin to Mombo and Jao for those who are familiar with their Botswana equivalents; Lunga & Busanga take on the classic camp status, while the vintage category is revived at Lufupa Camp when it opens in July, offering something for all tastes and budgets. July also marks the opening of the first Wilderness Safaris camp in South Luangwa National Park. Kalamu is a small, exclusive camp accommodating a maximum of eight guests in four Meru style tents and is set in the remote southern part of the park but is just a fifteen minute flight from Mfuwe or fly in directly from Lusaka.

From £3095.00 per person based on two sharing

Further details

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