Peru
Having just returned from almost a month researching Peru on a very busy schedule I will share with you some of the highlights of this country and some of the areas less frequented. For at least the last 7 years Peru has been the most visited country in South America by the British, seeing the ‘lost’ Inca city of Machu Picchu being the main reason for most visits. Peru is a large, very large country with tremendous diversity. As a wildlife company we are clearly interested in destinations exemplifying the natural world but as many of your itineraries worldwide include cultural elements, both historic and living communities, I also travelled in less visited northern Peru. In fact in the beautiful, old Spanish colonial city of Cajamarca I did not see another foreign tourist yet thoroughly enjoyed the stay in a pleasant 4* country hotel complete with its own hot spring thermal baths.
For nature three key areas really stand out:
Firstly Tambopata Research Centre (TRC). A full day (6 hour) boat journey up the Tambopata River from the nearest lodge, the new Refugio Amazonas, which in itself is around 3 hours from the quayside near Puerto Maldonado airport in the Amazon basin. TRC is home to the world’s largest known macaw clay lick and these magnificent birds are studied here. The macaws, parrots and parakeets visit the riverbank cliff face in huge numbers on a daily basis and in the early morning light this is a truly spectacular and cacophonous display. They visit in order to ingest minerals not found in their diet and neutralizing materials that bind the toxins that are present in the various fruits on which they feed. To see mixed flocks of hundreds of parrots from around 14 species, the brilliant red macaws and the sunrise on the bodies of blue and yellow macaws flying overhead is something special.
The cloudforest is also alive with myriads of birds including the ever busy hummingbirds, the national bird of Peru: the shy Cock of the Rock and the brilliant Highland Motmot. The cloudforest can be enjoyed easily on a nature walk from Machu Picchu Pueblo hotel below Machu Picchu where they have some good nature guides who run daily walks.
Finally and perhaps the highlight of wild Peru is Manu. Manu National Park is a large protected area around the size of Wales. Here just a couple of small lodges exist along the Madre de Dios River. Access is by a 2 day road and boat trip down through the cloudforest from Cusco or a short 45min hop in a 12-seater light aircraft into a jungle airstrip having flown over the high Andes. The immediate feeling of remoteness is encountered after the flight. I stayed at Manu Wildlife Center a couple of hours by boat downstream from the airstrip. The lodge is one of the best I have visited in any of the Amazon region and is highly rated by Condé Nast Traveller. It is still simple but has individual thatched rooms on stilts screened from mosquitoes and with a large private bathroom with tiled shower and hot water. There are large public areas and the meals are very enjoyable, being freshly served to your table unlike the familiar buffets at other lodges.
The guiding is some of the best I have experienced anywhere in the world and the guides really know the rainforest. Activities here include forest walks and special interests such as birds, orchids or butterflies can be accommodated, visits to an oxbow lake to search for giant otters and where horned screamers and hoatzin can be encountered. A night visit to a mammal clay lick, one of very few known, will enable you to see tapir, the largest animal in the forest. There are also opportunities to go in search of caiman and to do short night walks seeking frogs, a myriad of insects, spiders and snakes – nothing too scary! – just immensely interesting.
Culturally, highlights include of course Machu Picchu where we would recommend being among the first to enter the site early in the morning to experience some of its magic in the quiet hours, it really does get very busy by midday. The Temple of the Moon is a pre-Inca pyramid in the desert outside of Trujillo and has some stunning reliefs painted in brilliant colours and the city itself has a beautiful colonial main square also painted in fresh colours. On the high Altiplano and around the Sacred Valley it is also possible to visit villages and farms to gain an understanding of how the Campesinos are living today.
For the more adventurous there are numerous activities besides the classic Inca Trail. In fact close to where 500 persons a day travel the Inca Trail there are some very quiet sections of Inca trails that are hardly ever visited yet are equally rewarding. Of course there is also some high mountain trekking to be enjoyed around Huaraz and you can also white water raft from one day to two weeks. Finally there is a thoroughly enjoyable and easy excursion kayaking to the island of Taquile on Lake Titicaca, even for those who have never been in a kayak before.
Accommodation is very varied with rustic Amazonian chalets, formal 5* hotels like the lovely Monasterio in Cusco and even splendid villas in Urubamba where you can stay in a private chalet with your own maid who will serve tasty traditional meals. Tourism in Peru has come of age and there are some delightful options for stress-free and enjoyable exploration.
Our website will soon reflect some changes in ‘Suggested Itineraries’ relating to my trip but as there are just so many possibilities for designing your holiday here based on your specific interests then it is better to talk with me direct. First class services in Peru will ensure a memorable holiday.
Steve
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